Pbus belay technique video. PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide.
Pbus belay technique video Identify all Dec 1, 2016 · This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. From my experience teaching belay classes, the hunching down during PBUS occurs because new belayers aren't comfortable taking in slack while the rope isn't under tension. It's a four step process that can be abbreviated as PBUS. My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. more Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. Dec 20, 2018 · Proper belay techniques using the PBUS System. Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing adopts new extended rappel and belay techniques in basic and intermediate courses. The belayer’s strand of rope is threaded through the belay device according to the manufacturer’s specifications and attached to the belayer’s belay loop on their harness using a locked carabiner. , we believe the PBUS (Pull-Brake-Under-Slide) method while belaying is the best practice. We’ll be demonstrating the PBUS method of belaying. With a classic tube-style belay device, after taking in slack and bringing the brake hand back down, he simply slides his brake hand up the rope, opening it up just enough to allow the rope to stay in place. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. Perform the correct lowering technique with a belay device. 161 of Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed. Also you don’t have to stoop doing PBUS, it’s okay to keep a little slack between your belay device and your brake hand so you don’t have to reach down as far. Climbing Nomads How to bottom rope belay in a safe and efficient way is a vital skill for any climber. You need to belay like it won't work. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. Take Slack Falling Lower Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. Whereas, in the PBUS method, the belayer is already in the break, closer to the center or gravity, and closer to the body (under compression). All around this is a poor instructional video. Each device has its unique features and functions, but they all serve the same purpose of controlling rope tension to Video: Belaying with a GRIGRI See our video Belaying with a GRIGRI: We present the belay technique recommended by Petzl (for the climb and the lowering). PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Throughout two classes, learn the critical techniques necessary to both lead climb and belay in the gym. We use this technique at our indoor climbing wall and at our challenge course. In the UK, the words 'best practice' are thrown around a lot by climbing instructors and my own opinion is that it applies to this. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. Before you tie in or set See full list on rei. So it requires a little time to adapt to. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. Oct 24, 2025 · Reputable climbing gyms offer introductory belay classes taught by certified instructors. Like most gyms across the U. No matter how experienced Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. more A question about belay technique So sorry if I sound a bit ignorant but my girlfriend found out today that I've been belaying her on top rope as I would for lead. At 3:02 we review how to tie a Figure 8 and then the Figure 8 follow Through. I learned the slip, slap, slide method as a teenager and I had to undergo changing my technique. If someone “spoke up” to me about my belaying I’d be irritated. Jun 8, 2017 · One person I regularly climb with uses a belay technique that I was taught to be unsafe, so I would like to know just how unsafe it really is. I went to a new indoor climbing gym and got called out for not going under. She does it several times. Properly loaded belay device (we highly recommend a tube-style device) At The Pad, we use the PBUS Belay Technique: Pull Brake Under Slide We want to make sure you know your safety lingo! Be sure to know these climbing commands prior to climbing and during: On belay? Belay on. Switching hands on the brake rope increases the chance of The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. Which stands for pull, brake, under and slide. 95% of the people I climb with use it. WARNING: the hand on the brake side slides along the rope, but must never let go of the rope. The PBUS belay method is an excellent belay technique that ensures the brake Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. We give a few tips for effective belaying, assembling Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. Perform the the PBUS belay method. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the proper PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) method and lower the climber once he or Feb 13, 2018 · The most common way of belaying is called PBUS, which stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Participants will be given the opportunity to take and catch practice lead falls. Sometimes it won't do that. You will also find examples of belaying errors to avoid. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. Nobody likes the PBUS police, including us—but safety comes first. All the GriGri is is a tube-style device with a pinching cam that will often cinch down on the rope if it runs through the device too quickly. Sep 8, 2024 · Discover essential belay test requirements for safe climbing. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. What is the correct way to do this (including illustrations)? Aug 7, 2025 · Most belay classes will teach you the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) method. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Magazine Gear Editor, shows how to belay a The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of the system, you need to give the leader slack as he or she climbs. Many facilities, including those offering high ropes courses, will require demonstrated proficiency or instruction. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. PBUS or PLUS Belay Method When it comes to rock climbing safety, mastering the standard top-rope belay method is crucial. As long as the brake hands are alternating in the braking position, this technique abides by the fundamental principles of belay, and it is a preferred technique for experienced belayers and for top-ropers who move quickly. Patrons who want to learn to belay, who are unsure of any of the above requirements, or who want a refresher should register for our Top-Rope Belay Clinic. Apr 10, 2020 · Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. You're right that she teaches PBUS in that video as taking slack out by pulling the brake strand up above the belay device. Just sit back and enjoy the definitive guide on how to belay. 161 of Freedom of the Right now I'm going to show you how to use the proper belay method for top roping indoors. I use PBUS, and as the blog discusses, it's becoming almost universal now to teach beginners PBUS. Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice My co-instructor Lizzie teaches our newest @camp_mowglis Climbing Industry camper proper PBUS belay technique at Buffalo Corral. com Climbing Skills: PBUS Belay Method For Top Rope Climbing http://www. For lead belaying, the belayer should slide the brake hand back, sequestering a quantity of slack to be given to the leader. How to pass a belay certification? Proper belay techniques using the PBUS System. We understand there are a variety of different belay techniques that can be used. With recent climbing accidents in the spotlight, it’s a good time to check your belay habits. Belaying has changed over my lifetime and it will probably change again. Mar 15, 2016 · When belaying a leader, PBUS will not be a helpful belay technique, because of the need to steadily give slack to a lead climber. thailandclimbing. Many instructors and mentors Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well — is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. It requires a The video demonstrates a quick safety check, allows the two models to perform some of the worst line readings of “on belay” and “belay on” in history, and then launches into the belay technique for toprope climbers. He was a quick learner. ” First, load the rope through your belay device such that the strand leading to the climber extends from the opening closest to your body, and the spare end of the rope extends from the other opening, nearer to the wall. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC You should belay with a GriGri the same as you do with a tube-style device like an ATC. May 6, 2012 · If you haven’t seen the Hands Down (PBUS) method have one of the Edgeworks Staff demonstrate it, or take a look around at other belayers, you are sure to see the majority of them belaying Hands Down a better method. Apr 28, 2025 · The PBUS method—which stands for pull, brake, under, slide—is a tried and true technique that will ensure your hand never leaves the brake strand, while providing a safe belay. Feb 8, 2015 · This video explains how to check a climber before climbing and how to belay using the PBUS technique Jun 19, 2023 · HAND OVER HAND If the belayer alternates brake hands, [they are] able to move slack through the belay cycle more quickly than with PBUS. This technique, known as PBUS or PLUS, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the climber's and the belayer's security. They pull out a full arm's length of rope and while trying to keep it tight on the belay device, they can't reach below their fully outstretched brake hand. Happy viewing. What is Belaying? Belaying is a method used in climbing that involves managing the rope to protect the climber in the event of a fall or while they are ascending or descending. The PBUS technique involves using short, controlled, repetitive movements. PLUS is a standardized belay method for top rope belaying. com **Climbing is inherently dangerous. It also shows how to lower a climber from the top of a route: VIDEO: HOW TO BELAY LEAD-BELAYING Apr 3, 2018 · There are discussions of PBUS vs slap/slide technique for top rope belays, but I can't find anything about my preferred technique, which is NOT PBUS, but which strikes me as The Best Way (described for right-handed belayer) P and B happen as before: Pull in slack, Brake with right hand. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. Mar 21, 2024 · 9. While this video covers in deta Dec 15, 2020 · About to take the belay test at the gym but not sure where to start? Relax. In this REI Expert Advice video, we demonstrate how to The Importance of Proper Belay Techniques in Climbing One key aspect of proper belay techniques is understanding the different types of belay devices available and how they work. Unsafe top rope belay technique? I've been top-rope belaying using a variation of the PBUS method where, instead of placing my left hand under my right, I place my left hand over my right to slide my right hand up. S. Some common types include tubular devices, assisted braking devices, and figure-eight devices. Learning proper belaying techniques will make you a trustworthy rock climbing partner. Next, grip the climber Technique 2: shuffle technique Recommended technique for quickly taking up lots of slack or when there is no tension in the climber-side rope. So, use Slip, Slap, Slide, or PBUS. Climbing? Climb on. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay with the PBUS Technique Sep 25, 2021 · I was trained to belay at a summer camp by an adventure group. Oct 15, 2021 · A rock climber relies on a reliable belayer to keep them safe on a crag. Lesson Objectives After reading this page students should be able to: Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS) Understand belay safety checks Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying Demonstrate A-B-C positioning Understand belay from above The Belay Class covers: Pull Break Underhand Slide (PBUS) Belay Technique Gri-Gri belay devices Proper use and tie-ins of harnesses How to tie a Figure 8 Follow Through knot How to use the floor anchor system Belay commands Participants must complete the Belay Class and wait until the next Class/Test day before taking the associated competency Sportrock's Ultimate Guide to Top Rope Belaying will walk you through the process of top rope belaying using the PBUS method. Mastery of technique and understanding the equipment are foundational to effective belaying. Demonstrate correct PBUS belay technique (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) and lowering technique. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. That's an interesting link. Very interesting to see the difference of opinions on top rope belay technique. [2] PBUS is a basic belaying technique that allows you to safely and steadily control the slack in the rope as your partner ascends. No description has been added to this video. I'll guide you through techniques, gear checks, and safety protocols to ace your test and climb confidently. This video is not a substitution for personal instruction with a professional instructor or… Recommended technique for quickly taking up lots of slack or when there is no tension in the climber-side rope. Know the climbing commands used at the ARC, and when to use them. Feb 9, 2020 · Some helpful images on top-rope belaying with an ATC can be seen here, while this helpful video shows the PBUS technique – Pull, Brake, Under, Slide – to take in rope slack while keeping the brake hand in the brake position. Then grab brake strand with LEFT hand ABOVE the right hand. These courses cover fundamental belay techniques, climbing equipment use, and safety protocols in a controlled environment like a gym wall. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. Belaying is a critical skill in climbing that ensures the safety of the climber by managing the rope. 00:00 Introduction 01:18 Preparation 07:11 Belaying 13:52 Most Common Mistakes Camera & Assistance Ana bergamaschi, Charlie Farrow In this video, CMRCA guide Ooan Kongsingh demonstrates how to belay a top rope climber using the PBUS belay method. How to top-rope belay The most common technique for top-rope belaying is called the “PBUS” method. The way I was taught was to always have two hands below the atc and to pull up with both hands to tighten the rope and then brake with Two videos will show you how to use a standardized series of movements for the appropriate use of Petzl belay devices such as the REVERSO (. It is very safe because it does not allow to switch hands on the brake rope.