Dmm pivot vs petzl reverso. Letting go then re-locks the device.

Dmm pivot vs petzl reverso Everyone knows how to use the ATC guide/reverso (or Pivot for that matter). A face-on comparison view of three belay devices: Petzl Reverso (left), DMM Pivot (center) and BD’s ATC (right). Dec 28, 2017 · On a side note, I think the "vertical" hole on a Black Diamond ATC-Guide orients the device to hang better off a 3-piece anchor (often trad), whereas the "horizontal" hole on the Petzl Reverso orients the device to hang better off a 2-piece anchor (often bolts). (Some people complain the Pivot heavy, but it’s really not. Aug 14, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It does a capable job catching falls, feeding slack, and rappelling. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. Jul 14, 2025 · Compared to the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso, the DMM Pivot stood out with its distinctive shackle. On my kitchen scale, the Pivot weights 72g. The others are equally great, too, and I can highly recommend both the Black Diamond ATC-Guide and the Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay Device. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary with sub 8mm ropes. My point is that regardless of the brand there’s generally little to differentiate one device from another. A side-by-side comparison view of three belay devices: BD’s ATC (left), DMM Pivot (center) and Grande Wall Gimli (right). There is loads of choice these days and much of it is relatively similar, but also quite good at its intended job. Aug 23, 2021 · Super helpful to see the visual of the space difference in the alpine atc vs. Oct 15, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Questions and Answers About ATC belaying devices How do I pick the best ATC? Nov 6, 2015 · Hi all, after a little help/advice. Essential kit for multi-pitch climbers, mountaineers and climbing instructors. DMM Pivot Desde la aparición del Reverso de Petzl las innovaciones en los asegurad Aug 6, 2021 · Other brands’ versions of this device (Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability: rope ascender. Reverso mode provides assisted-braking while belaying one or two seconding climbers from the top of a pitch. The Verso is tied for the most affordable device you can buy, and is a solid recommendation for people new to climbing. Reply reply getdownheavy • Sep 30, 2016 · The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot’s closest competitor in shape and design. Dmm pivot. ly/3XykBw8DMM Pivot: https://bit. It is an affordable option that is apt for both beginner and advanced climbers and allows for quick and easy transitions into guide mode, allowing the user to switch between belaying and lowering in a flash. ly/3 ATC guide is more durable. May 29, 2017 · Obviously, the Pivot also does great belaying a leader, just like other similar devices. That said, i generally like the hard goods from DMM and the soft goods from Edelrid. 3mm. But so does the DMM Pivot or the Petzl Reverso ;) Nov 11, 2023 · Compare Petzl GriGri 2 vs Edelrid Mega Jul Sport and 20 other options side by side to learn "What are the best belay devices for rock climbing?" Nov 26, 2013 · PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. Nov 3, 2020 · DMM Pivot Belay Device Check Price and Reviews On Amazon Very similar in many regards to the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso. This seemed Apr 24, 2019 · Reverso 4 vs. 71 $104. 5mm single ropes. The updated Reverso is a few grams lighter (57 g vs the Reverso 4's 63 g) and has some cosmetic changes, such as a flat top and rounded edges, which Petzl says is part of a design to increase durability and longevity of the device Oct 12, 2022 · OP, if you decide to revisit the aluminum belay devices, do yourself a HUGE favor and look into the DMM Pivot. Edelrid Mega-Jul looks promising to replace my ATC-Guide if that ever wears throug. The megajul has some differences that although simple, take a minute to wrap your head around. As mentioned earlier using a PCD to belay a second should be in terrain where a fall or lower is not expected. It also takes rope diameters down to 7. El Pivot de DMM presenta en su zona de frenado dos acanaladuras completas y una media similares a las del Reverso. Oct 7, 2019 · This process is significantly trickier with the Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide. 3mm half and twin. Aug 7, 2015 · Many years ago after a scary few moments abbing off the South Face of the Midi with an original Black Diamond ATC and new skinny ropes, I bought one of the first generation of Petzl Reversos, looking for more friction. Pourvu de deux gorges de freinage, d’un est utilisable dans la totalité des disciplines alpines : voies d’une longueur, grande-voie, alpinisme, etc. 95 Pivot sits squarely between the same-priced Black Diamond ATC Guide (88 g) and Petzl Reverso 4 (59 g). Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Lowering is easier also the orientation of the belay loop for guide mode is 90° compared to the BD ATC wich orientates the rope either up or down on a anchor. Apr 14, 2020 · Each climber has a plaquette style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide), and each climber has two designated locking carabiners to use with this device. After my Reverso wore out and my ATC guide was lent out and never came home, I snagged a Pivot and have never looked back. 95 Sterling ATS Rappel Device Sterling ATS Rappel Device $59. A side-by-side comparison view of three belay devices BD's ATC left, DMM Pivot center and Grande Wall Gimli right. Jan 14, 2019 · Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear. It is compatible with most rope diameters: single 8. Pretty much the best ATC style belay device there is. A development of already excellent devices like the Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC-Guide, the DMM Pivot is designed for easier handling in 'guide' mode, allowing much greater control when lowering a second. 1 to 9 $84. The Edelrid jul does, but they can be really jerky and difficult to use. 00 Wild Country Ropeman 2 Ascender Wild Country Ropeman 2 Ascender $64. Hey! I am currently looking for a guide mode belay device, preferably a DMM Pivot, Petzl Reverso, or a BD ATC Guide! Aug 7, 2015 · However, I have found a krab of the correct size works fine with a reverso (not used a dmm pivot - happy to try one if DMM send me one). 95 Cypher Figure 8 Cypher Figure 8 $19. Jun 26, 2003 · The Reverso ($21, 2. The Black Diamond ATC Guide weighs in at 88g and the current Petzl Reverso is listed at 59g. It has 2 tubes, with differing levels of friction on either side. Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a belay device for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. This feature seemed to address the very specific issue of lowering seconds under load, something the others addressed less directly. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for cragging, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. In lead/rappel mode it feeds both single and double ropes just like a tube device. Sep 15, 2025 · Slings vs Lanyards vs Personal Anchors - Differences, Usages & Safety Musts | Ep. Exceptional control for guide plate belaying. 9 ounces) plays the dual roles of a belay/rappel plate and an auto-locking device. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. 5 to 11 mm, half 7. ly/3SuXqSGPetzl Reverso: https://bit. Given that the DMM Pivot costs about the same and offers better functionality, to me it’s a great choice if you’re looking to upgrade your belay device. In this respect the Reverso was an improvement but it also had the added feature of being usable “guide style” for bringing up seconds directly from the belay. 95 Imlay Canyon Critr3 Rappel Device . Jan 14, 2025 · In reply to alan moore: I'd suggest looking at something like the DMM Mantis, Petzl Verso or a BD ATC XP most likely if you don't need guide mode. I use a reverso or a dmm pivot, they work great, but they don’t have assisted braking belaying. They have reasonable ledges to stand on, not a full hanging belay. 95 Edelrid NanoJul Edelrid NanoJul $44. 95 out of stock Figure 8>Sticht plate>Sticht plate with spring>Munter>HB Tuber>DMM stubby Tuber (bug?)>Trango finned Tuber>ATC>Trango Jaws>Reverso>ATC Guide>Grigri 1>Mad Rock autoblocking Tuber>Wild Country Tuber>Pivot+Grigri 1 I've used the Cinch, the MegaJul, the Alpine Up, the Smart, and a whole bunch of others but never owned those. atc; appreciate that Tim! I'm very used to using atcs in guide mode so keeping the setup consistent seems favourable (without alternate orientation of reverso or dmm pivot). Aug 26, 2024 · Have Improvised Rescue Skills – This point is well illustrated by the amount of climbers who use plaquette style devices (Black Diamond Guide ATC, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) but have yet to practice lowering from a loaded device. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. In terms of features they are much of a muchness, although you may find that one is more granny than the others. The innovative pivoting shackle reduces the force needed to lower seconds, enhancing speed control. Black Diamond Alpine Guide: https://bit. Reverso Since our test period, Petzl has released an updated model of this device, simply called the Reverso (the model we tested was the Reverso 4). 1246 How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot Belaying in Guide Mode on rope belays with a Black Diamond ATC Guide, DMM Pivot etc. Petzl recently released the GriGri +, so the big new question is: do you need one? Belay Device Style Material Carabiner Type Petzl Grigri $78. These devices require substantial strength on the brake hand when catching a fall and continued lock-off when top rope belaying or belaying your second. I'm looking to buy a new belay device. Feb 12, 2021 · I’m fairly sure that the Petzl Reverso was the first device to market with this design, and it remains one of the best. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Dec 9, 2021 · When using a plaquette style belay device (Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot) in Assisted-Braking Mode or Auto-Blocking Mode (to belay a follower directly off the anchor) there are some ways to reduce the amount of effort required to pull slack through the device. More for multipitch climbing and where I suspect I'll be leading the majority of the climb. The second is belayed directly from the master point of the anchor. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. Additionally, the Pivot can handle skinnier ropes than either of the competitors: 8. 99 Edelrid Pinch Belay Edelrid Pinch Belay $124. May 5, 2025 · The standard tube-style devices, like the Black Diamond ATC models, the DMM Pivot, and the Petzl Verso and Reverso, scored the lowest compared to the rest of the field. ly/40YplOJBlack Diamond Guide: https://bit. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. DMM Pivot Belay Device $ 51. Gone are the days of simple 'stitch plates' I have narrowed my choice down to one specific type, but there are still many to choose from, eg:- BD ATC, Dmm Pivot, Petzl Reverso 4, Edelrid Kilo Jul and the list goes on A face-on comparison view of three belay devices Petzl Reverso left, DMM Pivot center and BD's ATC right. The BD can clip directly to your harness, the Petzl will need 2 carabiners to get into the right orientation. It isn't the lightest comparable device and doesn't accommodate modern 8. Easy to use, inexpensive, super easy to lower in guide mode and the slight 90 degree change in the guide bracket make a world of difference at your belay stations Mar 2, 2015 · At 72 grams, the $29. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. Sep 16, 2021 · The DMM Pivot is an autoblocking tube belay device that separates itself from the pack with a pivoting anchor loop that is useful when releasing the auto block, which is performed rarely. May 23, 2025 · Le Pivot, de la marque galloise DMM, est un appareil d’assurage de type panier, sans freinage assisté et similaire au Petzl Reverso ou au Black Diamond ATC Guide. It can pivot (how’d they name this?) so if you wish to lower your second (s), you can do so smoothly. Jan 28, 2019 · By Jonathan Doyle - Tips, advice and comparisons on using guide mode belaying devices for rock climbing and mountaineering. There is also the alpine up by climbing technology, which is essentially two click ups stuck together, and designed for half ropes. Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate May 29, 2017 · Have Petzl fixed the wear issue with the Reverso 4? If you are using one have you seen the sharpening/burring issues experienced by the earlier models? Anyone using the DMM Pivot or Black Diamond ATC Guide seen similar wear issues? Based purely on the wear issues which would you choose? Reverso 4, DMM Pivot or BD ATC? Having used a Petzl Reverso 3 due to the wear on the device after very minor Dmm Belay Device DMM Pivot Belay Device (Lime) - Smooth Lowering In Guide Mode For Climbing & Mountaineering Vs Petzl Reverso May 29, 2017 · Have Petzl fixed the wear issue with the Reverso 4? If you are using one have you seen the sharpening/burring issues experienced by the earlier models? Anyone using the DMM Pivot or Black Diamond ATC Guide seen similar wear issues? Based purely on the wear issues which would you choose? Reverso 4, DMM Pivot or BD ATC? Having used a Petzl Reverso 3 due to the wear on the device after very minor Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Jan 31, 2016 · The Petzl Verso is one of the lightest and smallest of all and features the same smooth rope handling as its more popular cousin, the Petzl Reverso. Rappel Devices for 6mm Rope? What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) My DMM Pivot works great in guide mode in conjunction with my somewhat skinnier trad ropes. El ATC Guide de Black Diamond tiene tres acanaladuras laterales de frenado, de mayor profundidad y anchura y Reverso de Petzl tiene dos, de menor profundidad y anchura. Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. 3 Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC guide break tests - how strong is that eye? Aug 7, 2015 · However, I have found a krab of the correct size works fine with a reverso (not used a dmm pivot - happy to try one if DMM send me one). Reverso is lighter and can handle slightly thinner ropes. Letting go then re-locks the device. Climbing How To However, our top pick is the Petzl Reverso. How Does A DMM Pivot Belay Device Work? | Climbing Daily Ep. Where the magic happens is in the guide mode loop. It allows you to belay your climbing partner, rappel, and use Reverso mode to belay one or two seconds. Add five bucks for the Edelrid Mega Jul (65 g). 7mm single, 7. ) are usually also fine. I still use the Reverso because I have a bunch of carabiners already and didn't want to go buy a new device to save 1 carabiner that setting. Lightweight and multipurpose, the Reverso can both belay and descend climbers with a snag-free, rounded design Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Jul 29, 2019 · The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. DMM basically looked at the Petzl Reverso (which they coincidentally are forging for Petzl) and tried improving on the concept. Exceptions: DMM Edge Chalk Bucket Edelrid Nineteen G for racking Cams. 95 DMM Pivot Belay DMM Pivot Belay $49. 99 The Pivot belay device offers superior control and stopping power for belaying, lowering, and abseiling, whether used in guide mode or from the waist. DMM and Edelrid both make awesome produtcs, engineered by experienced climbers. The Verso and other tube-style devices are ideal for The Petzl Reverso device allows you to up your climbing game whilst out at the crag. Features include: May 5, 2025 · The standard tube-style devices, like the Black Diamond ATC models, the DMM Pivot, and the Petzl Verso and Reverso, scored the lowest compared to the rest of the field.